Stained-glass panel showing a bearded Elizabethan man in ornate clothing, flanked by two figures beneath dark blue glass.

Sir Walter Raleigh and the Old Exeter Inn

It was the evening of July 19th in the year 1603 and Sir Walter Raleigh sat quietly in a corner of the Old Exeter Inn. He was wanted for Treason against King James I.

Sir Walter is a famous son of the Old Exeter Inn. The liberty of this remarkable man was taken right here in July 1603. Walter Raleigh was knighted by Queen Elizabeth I in 1585 after he rose rapidly in her favour as a landlord of property confiscated from the Irish. In 1594, Raleigh heard of a ‘City of Gold’ in South America and set sail to find it, publishing an exaggerated account of his experiences in a book that contributed to the legend of ‘El Dorado’ (modern-day Venezuela).

However, when the Queen discovered that he had married Elizabeth Throckmorton, one of her ladies-in-waiting, without her permission, she sent him, for the first time, to the Tower of London. She only released him when one of his ships returned with a huge treasure from the New World!

Sir Walter Raleigh was arrested for Treason against King James I at the Old Exeter Inn on July 19 1603 after a huge manhunt.

A new King. Bad luck for Raleigh

In 1603, Queen Elizabeth died and was succeeded by King James I. The new King was eager to make peace with the Spanish. He was also not favourably disposed toward Raleigh.

Sir Walter then became embroiled in a plot against the King and, after a huge manhunt, was tracked down to Old Exeter Inn at Ashburton, a place he knew well on 19th July, 1603. He was arrested inside the inn on a charge of Treason Against The King. He was taken to the Tower of London and formally charged for his part in the treacherous act. He was tried in the Great Hall of Winchester Castle on 7th November, 1603. Raleigh’s luck hadn’t abandoned him entirely. He was found guilty, but the King spared his life. The Tower then became his home for 13 long years.

Whilst at the Tower, Raleigh wrote the first volume of ‘The Historie of the World’ – about the ancient history of Greece and Rome (first published in 1628). Then in 1616, he was released to lead a second search for ‘El Dorado’. The expedition was a failure. Raleigh then defied the King’s instructions by attacking the Spanish. At this point, his luck was truly out. On his return to England, an outraged Count Gondomar, the Spanish Ambassador, successfully demanded that King James reinstate Sir Walter’s death sentence.

Blue Heritage Plaque outside the Old Exeter Inn.

Sharp Medicine!

Sir Walter was brought to London from Plymouth by Sir Lewis Stuckley and passed up numerous opportunities to make an effective escape. He was beheaded at Old Palace Yard, Westminster, on 29th October, 1618. “Let us dispatch”, he said to his executioner. “At this hour, my ague comes upon me. I would not have my enemies think I quaked from fear”. After he was allowed to see the axe that would behead him, he mused: “This is a sharp Medicine, but it is a Physician for all diseases and miseries”. A documented reference from the day of his execution noted that Lady Raleigh and her ladies left the scene carrying Sir Walter’s head in a red bag. It was said that she had her husband’s head embalmed and carried it around with her for the rest of her life.

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